Pam Webb

a writer's journey as a reader

Archive for the tag “Okinawa”

Touchdown!


No, I’m not referring to January football action. Besides, I’m more of a soccer fan when it comes to fast action with people running around on a field with a ball.

This touchdown refers to being home once again after two plus weeks in Okinawa. Like what Dorothy said: “There’s no place like home.”

image: ABC News
extra: I saw a pair of these at the Smithsonian in Washington DC–there is a definite “ooh” factor

Granted, there were memorable highlights from my trip, the main one being my daughter-in-law’s doula and welcoming my grandson into the world. I even cut the umbilical cord.

Other highlights:

The ocean views. Being on an island means the ocean is a prominent part of the scenery. Having grown up in Seattle, and lived along Northern California’s coast, I am a fan of ocean views. What is especially thrilling is watching the sun rise out of the ocean because duh the sun would naturally rise out of the east. I’m used to the sun sinking, not rising, in the ocean being from the western side of the world. The sun leisurely ascending out of its watery rest, slowly rising as mound of fluorescent pink, (much like an egg yolk that’s sunnyside up), traveling upwards into the sky to hide behind the screen of clouds is an unforgettable moment.

Besides scenery, food is noteworthy.

The guard dogs are friendlier than they look

Eating lunch Yaki style involved grilling our meat at our table and being served a variety of side dishes delivered by:

Robbie or Roberta, our robot server

Another time I snuck away after our breakfast at a Hawaiian cafe to quickly explore a nearby beach:

I could easily spend more time at this beach park

Another highlight is being aware of the noticeable differences in culture. For one, cars are incredibly smaller. My 2005 Honda Civic would be considered to be a large vehicle.

considered a compact by
USA standards, my Honda
is practically in the luxury
model status in Okinawa
image: Wikipedia–small on the outside, yet surprisingly roomy on the inside

Cleanliness. Okinawa, Japan in general, is clean. Little, to no trash is evident, not because there is a surfeit of trash receptacles; it’s expected people deposit trash properly either at designated places like at the multitude of convenience stores or they take it home. Restrooms are clean and I am a definite fan of how the Japanese provide heated seats, with an option for waterfall sound effects.

image: daily mail
options, plenty of options

I also noticed an abundance of vending machines. They are found not only in front of stores, but in residential neighborhoods, even in unexpected places like seemingly abandoned lots:

Handy, I suppose…

I never saw anyone actually using these vending machines, causing me to wonder the viability of the goods.

Another cultural notable is clothing sizes. I needed to pick up a couple of warmer shirts and some leisure pants. My son took me to the local mall (that’s a post in itself) and I ended up buying extra large in size. I am a petite 5’3 and I felt hefty after trying on the available small.

Women’s Clothing Sizes: Japanese vs. Western

Japan35791113151719
U.S.002 – 44 – 6810121416
U.K.468101214161820
Italy363840424446485052
France323436384042444648
N. Europe303234363840424446
image: plaza homes (I should have consulted this article first

Cars are both tiny and in excellent condition. Unfortunately, Okinawa, for a small island, has a big vehicle problem. A combination of local commuters and military influence creates a snarl of traffic that turns what should be a 20 minute drive into 90 stop and go. Reminds me of Seattle’s 405.

not much of a difference is there?–except for the car size

One other aspect that I couldn’t ignore is how businesses insert random American words into their store names. Perhaps that is supposed to project an international appeal. A neighborhood store advertised itself as “Rolling Stone.” What it sold was a mystery.

I also discovered, after my suspicions were confirmed by my son, that the several hotels clustered together around the bend were indeed as they sounded:

Not exactly subtle
Yes, it seems to do brisk business

It was explained to me that Japanese children usually live with their parents until they marry at around 25. To get some privacy couples will book a room at one of the numerous establishments by the hour or for a longer stay. Christmas in Japan is celebrated more as a romantic getaway time with couples booking stays at resorts enjoying the festive lights and decorations.

While I appreciate my time with my son and his family, and aspects of the Japanese culture, I am a product of the USA and I am glad to be home. However, I really do miss those heated seats, especially at 3 am. Inland Northwest nights are unforgiving in that regard.

No Snow and Ho Ho Ho


Don’t be fooled—Only in resorts is this showy light display evident

Traditionally people associate Christmas and its various holiday garnishes with the Dickens ideal: snow, carols, festive meals, gift exchanges—along with the modern additions of multiple opportunities to attend a plethora of events ranging from craft fairs to baking workshops to White Elephant exchanges to the ubiquitous children’s church pageant.

Christmas is not the huge wintery event here in Okinawa. It’s strangely different, if not refreshing, to not be reminded every minute in every place that this is Christmas time.

Okinawans, from what I have seen so far, acknowledge Christmas in their own unique way. For instance, the three story mega mall has the usual festive yuletide trimmings hung throughout the stores, which cater to resident tastes. There are some Western stores such as Gap interspersed, but for the most part the mercantile is mainly Japanese in consumer orientation.

Makes sense, doesn’t it? The shoppers are 99.9% Japanese shopping in stores catering to their needs and preferences. Then why, oh why, is all the piped holiday music in English?

This question did not get answered.

Around the island only an occasional house is festooned with lights. In fact offices and stores only discreetly acknowledge the season with decorations. An office counter might sport a miniature snowman or the grocery store might display enticing holiday food items like the end cap of Martinelli’s. Although Travel guides sell the island as a season of lights, it’s not really promoting the holiday. One tourist spot, the American Village (really, this is a place—think anime crossed with Disney overtones) advertises the holiday light display will be up through March. I think most Americans tend to cast a discouraging eye towards neighbors who have lights up after the first week of January. The HOA might have ruffled feathers if lights are up through March.

The big ingredient is also missing in Okinawa: there is no snow. Balmy days provide the going weather. That Currier and Ives setting is not happening. Snow on palm trees? In actuality, the Japanese treat Christmas more as a type of Valentine’s Day with romantic excursions.

And you know what? I am absolutely okay with the lack of the usual festive trimmings that seems to be expected, at least in the good old USA where I am usually celebrating Christmas. I like the idea of a low key celebration.

This year Christmas is in Okinawa with my son and his family as we await the birth of his son.

Pause.

Now that sounds like a Christmas with meaning. The way it was originally intended.

While this year’s Christmas has no snow and minimal Ho Ho Ho, it has greater significance for me as we focus on the joy of welcoming a new member to the family.

May your Christmas be cheery and bright as you reflect on the importance and reason for the season.

TV, Eat, Sleep, Repeat…


Hmm—sounds like a recipe for the winter humdrums because the weather outside is frightful, and while I often do find some inside diversions that are delightful (such as reading and more reading), the above title reflects the tedium of my 14 hours of air travel to Okinawa.

Last year, around this time, I traveled solo to Okinawa to meet my DIL (daughter-in-law) and my new granddaughter. This year I was invited to return to Okinawa to be my DIL’s doula for their expected son. An honor I couldn’t resist.

Having flown last year to Okinawa, I felt better prepared for the flight, airport layovers, and overall stamina needed. Last year the hours in the air weren’t so bad, perhaps since I had splurged on Comfort Plus and snagged an aisle seat. Delta serves great meals, BTW. I also bought one of those advertised wraparound-the -neck pillows. Definitely a recommended purchase as I could nap without my head flopping about.

However, preparedness aside, this year I noticed my body didn’t travel as well. Backside, knees, shoulders all began to complain after six hours of sitting. Even my mantra of “Watch some TV, get some sleep, wake up to eat, and then repeat” did little to alleviate my discomfort.

I can’t imagine what it’s like being squished into economy for 10 hours. I’m glad my family convinced me into buying extra leg room.

All that discomfort and tedium faded away once established in my son’s guest room. Playing with my granddaughter, hanging out with my son and DIL, and touristing are all pleasant aspects of the visit.

An extra bonus is that Okinawa weather is a tonic since with its blue skies, warm sun, and offshore breezes. I left behind in Idaho grey skies, snowy days, chilly temps, and a longing for sun. Today in Okinawa it was a balmy 66 degrees at 10 am and I slipped outside to soak up the rays.

Yes, I did pink up sitting in the sun for a few minutes. Who can resist an ocean view on a sunny balcony? I sure couldn’t!

Doula duty is coming up in a week or two. Until then it’s play, sleep, eat, and repeat with my amazing Okinawa fam.

Okinawa! Part Three


Now that I’ve been home for a week and have processed my trip (let alone get my sleep cycle back on track), I’ve been reflecting on how to best answer the usual question of “What was Okinawa like?” Since I did not luxuriate as a tourist in a hotel and stayed with my son and daughter-in-law in their apartment–which is more like a condo compared to American standards–I experienced Okinawa with deeper regard, especially since my son embraces his new life in Okinawa and hopes to stay on for awhile.

Notable Differences

  • Driving on left side of road--this I could not get used to at all. For one, I kept trying to get in on the right side of the car which is not the passenger side, but the driver’s side. This continually amused my son. My son is quite adept at navigating turns, traffic, and the tiny streets of Okinawa. I tried not to be the agitated passenger. I do believe I failed that aspiration.
Photo by WENCHENG JIANG on Pexels.com
  • Dawn–being a Westerner and having grown up around the ocean, watching the sun set on the horizon is never tiring, so watching the sun rise out of the ocean at dawn absolutely caught me by surprise–well, duh–it’s the far east, so of course the sun rises out of the ocean. It was magical, like a giant Georgia peach half levitating itself into the luminescent clouds. Or like watching a sunset in reverse.
  • Trash–Okinawa streets and public areas are practically trash free. There are no stray bits of paper skittering along the sidewalk, no plastic bags tangled in the grass, no overflowing garbage bins. The reason is there are no public waste cans. If you have garbage you take it home or deposit it in one of the numerous public restroom receptacles or at one of the many convenience stores. It seems to work well. Okinawa is refreshingly clean and tidy.
  • Heated Toilet Seats–it’s true. Even the public restrooms are equipped with this option. Some toilets offer numerous options including music, lights, or a bidet. Returning home to my winter homescape I do miss a warmed seat, especially at 3 a.m.
  • Recycling–it’s not an altruistic choice, it’s mandatory. Garbage is sorted into plastics (mainly beverage containers), burnables, aluminum, and glass. Trashbags must be clear and households are fined if sorting is not done correctly. It’s complicated and admirable, too. Oh, the garbage trucks are tiny, about the size of standard Suburban, and rely on workers jumping on and off the truck. These trucks play melodies. At first I thought there was an ice cream truck in the neighborhood.
  • PSA–everyday at 5 pm a happy little tune is played and a woman’s pleasant Japanese voice comes on for a few minutes. The message basically reminds all children of the 6 pm curfew, to get off the streets and go home. Amazing, right? How would that work in America?*

*while the curfew message is important, the system is also in place to ensure the public broadcasting system works in case of a PSA is needed (like a certain hostile country launching a “satellite” over Okinawa while I was there. Didn’t see that one in the news, did you?)

  • No Tipping–no kidding. Japan is a service-based culture and the idea of receiving extra money for providing what should be their best effort is frowned upon, although I did see a tip jar at the register of one restaurant situated in American City. This is probably to appease the Pavlovian response of American tourists when eating out.
  • No Junkers--again, so refreshing. Cars on the road are clean and in excellent condition. No dented, rusted, decrepit vehicles are evident. The cars are also tiny. My little Honda Civic would be considered mid-size, if not large, compared to the autos scurrying about on the roads. The only pickup trucks seen (only one) was owned by a Marine driving on base. My son said some guys ship their trucks over during their tour. It’s pricey, but hey, some guys just need their truck. The narrow roads aren’t very accommodating for large rigs, so good luck with that one, buddy.
  • Silver Citizens--it is not unusual to see Okinawa’s elderly still working. I saw them at the airport attaching baggage tags, at the commissary bagging groceries, and walking around on the sidewalks with their cloth shopping bags. No wonder the Japanese are noted for their longevity–the secret is remaining physically active with a purpose.
image: Japan Times

I can see why my son enjoys living in Okinawa. It’s clean, efficient, with a culture built on respect. I also love the expanse of ocean surrounding the island. A bonus is that I had no asthma issues or tinnitus during my two week stay. I also have an adorable granddaughter living in Okinawa. These are all inducements to move there, yes, I know. I briefly considered the invitation, but I would miss the trees (Okinawa is jungle, green, yet there is nothing like backyard forest with deer, squirrels, birds, and an occasional moose) and driving on the right side (the correct side?) is a must, and understanding the language is essential. Okinawa is definitely a nice place to visit and I am glad my son enjoys living there. I will return someday…

Okinawa! Part Two


After visiting the botanical gardens my son decided I needed to see American Village. Not being fond of overt tourist attractions, I politely deferred, and said if we were short on time we could skip it and head to the beach instead. Turns out lunch and getting to the ocean involved American Village.

It’s difficult to describe American Village. It’s as as if someone took a child’s colorful toy village set and hobbled it together with bright posters, stairways, and sensational features, like a gigantic plastic fuchsia shark.

Yes, that is a bit of a smirk, as in “Really? Another tourist shot?”

Lunch was upstairs in a restaurant called The Pancake House. Apparently it is very popular with tourists and locals. The menus, three are presented, all have photos in order to guide selections. Prices are in yen, but Google is very helpful in converting and a Visa solves transactions. With my offer of paying for lunch my son ordered freely from the menu. His main entree being a plate that combines fries, pancakes, and chicken. I attempted what I thought was a simple chicken curry with rice. It was more of a gravy with chicken nuggets. It was okay, but not going to be a recommendation. The total meal came to about $30, a deal considering we ordered two entrees, a side, a drink, and a dessert.

Not found in American pancake houses that I know

A stop at an ice cream shop followed lunch and it’s difficult to mess up mint chocolate chip in a waffle cone. The ice cream is made on premises and it wasn’t as sweet as its American counterpart. Walking around American Village I was amazed at all the shops tucked in here and there around all the catwalks that connected the buildings. Considering it was a Tuesday it was busy enough with mainly Japanese tourists and few Americans. Christmas decorations were everywhere. Giant snowmen, elves, Santas and the usual convivial trappings of the season were ever present among the giant box presents. Again, I deferred visiting trinket shops, hoping for something unique. So my son took me to the Cat Cafe.

No food service,just lots of kitties

Cats are revered in Japan and the Cat Cafe concept involves buying kibble to feed the assortment of cats roaming around in the airy wooden-floored room. The cat varieties vary from hairless to stubby-pawed chubbs, to fluffy tabbies with personalities ranging from noisy complainers meandering about to contented dozers curled up in cozy kitty lofts. Some cats turned their nose up at the kibble, but most appreciated the free handout. They all looked healthy and were not overweight even though it was obvious this is a popular place to visit. Both locals and tourists filled the room, all were enjoying their interactions with either petting or feeding the cats. I noticed couples coming into the cafe as a date destination. In fact this was a favorite place for my son and daughter-in-law when they were dating since animals are not allowed in the barracks. When they married and moved off base they immediately got two lovely cats from the rescue shelter. Yes, it did seem silly to me that we were paying to pet and feed cats when two were waiting for us at home.

Ma-bo, one of my grandcats. He gladly accepts kibbles and pets at no charge

Last stop was the sea wall. The ocean has always been part of my life having grown up on the west coast. Living inland the last 30 years I miss the ocean and it was a treat to renew my appreciation for it. Oddly, there were no seagulls cruising around and no whiff of salty air as experienced when visiting my former hometown, Seattle’s waterfront. Still, the ocean is a tonic for me and I could have easily stayed the afternoon walking along the immense promenade gazing out on the diamond-dappled waters.

Seeing the sea is a highlight for me

Our last stop was Foster Marine base: a haircut for my son and a stop at the base library because I didn’t pack enough books for the trip. What a library! Clean, well-organized, a bounty of selection. My son is now working at another base library and my daughter-in-law is studying for her librarian degree. Two more librarians in the family!

Soon I will leave Okinawa and return home. Not being much of a traveler this has been an eye opening experience and Part Three explores my observations. Stay tuned!

Okinawa! Part One


I’m in Okinawa, Japan, meeting my new granddaughter and engaging in some grandmother time. It takes a household of adults to take care of a newborn.

As a break from grandma time my son took me sightseeing and here are the highlights:

The Botanical Gardens

This a popular site with both locals and tourists. The gardens are interspersed with petting zoo exhibits. My very favorite was the capybara enclosure. As a favor to bloggy pal author Mike Allegra, I shared his book with a capy, who definitely showed an interest in a story about his fellow mellow rodent pals.

My son convinced me to feed the monkeys and not being enamored of these critters (thanks to PBS and Disney, I know what they are capable of doing) I went in with great hesitation. I was immediately mobbed for the sunflower seeds we purchased for them. There’s a monkey on my back proved quite true and then some.

Moving from beasts we fed some beautiful birds.

At least one typical tourist pose needed

We then traveled from the lush gardens to the other side of the island for lunch and a passing visit to the American Village. More to come in Part Two—stay tuned.

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